2" Screened In Porch Systems

DIY Porch & Patio Screen Wall Kit

We appreciate your purchase.
Your ScreenHouse kit is designed and engineered with over 20 years of experience in residential and commercial construction. Every kit is proudly manufactured in the USA using responsibly sourced materials in the state-of-the-art facilities of Superior Mason and Four Seasons Building Products.

Your product is backed by one of the best warranties in the industry:

15-year limited warranty on insulated panels
Limited lifetime warranty on all aluminum extrusions

This guide is intended as a general installation reference. Every existing structure is different, and some adjustments may be needed. Fortunately, your kit is highly adaptable, and most adjustments can be made easily using the materials provided.

Assembling your enclosure will require patience and common sense.
If you are ever unsure, our support team is just a call or email away.

Additional resources such as reference cut sheets, 3D models, and plan/elevation drawings are available in your customer portal or by request.

Note: We cannot be responsible for errors caused by incorrect material cuts. Please review this guide carefully before beginning.

Please read this entire installation guide step-by-step before starting your project.

We recommend a team of one to three able-bodied individuals with some DIY experience.
Installation typically takes one to two days depending on room size and preparation.

Review each step carefully to understand the process, tools, and materials needed. Some trimming or fitting may be required to match your specific structure.
Be sure to have your custom layout (provided with your quote) on hand as you follow along.

Safety First: Inspect your project area before beginning.
Identify all power lines, outlets, and potential hazards.
Do not start work until the area is safe.

This guide covers porch screening kits using the 2-inch wall system for walls-only installations (roof already in place).
If your custom quote specifies a 2x3 wall system or a complete enclosure with roof, please refer to the corresponding manual for that configuration.

(Not included with kit)

1–2 helpers
4 ft. carpenter’s level
Carpenter’s square
Chalk line (for marking U-channel locations)
Cordless drill or nut driver
Caulking gun
Chop saw with a metal-cutting blade (for accurate cuts)
Ladders
Masonry bits and fasteners (if drilling into concrete)
Metal file (to smooth cut edges)
Hammer, screwdrivers, tape measure, box knife
Gloves and safety eyewear

Before you begin:

Unpack and inventory all materials at a safe distance from your work area.
Review the room-specific materials list and cut sheet in your customer portal or request them by email.

Please note:

Some components may differ slightly as manufacturers update parts over time. Equivalent replacements are always used to maintain quality.
A “*” in a part number indicates the color code for your materials.
Labels such as “Special Car Wash” or “Custom Walk Cover” on your Bill of Lading are manufacturer placeholders for bundled materials — not individual parts you’ll receive.

If you are uncertain about any part or replacement, call us at 1-800-922-4760 or email our support team. We are happy to help.

Part Number	Part Description	Dimension
1701*	Uchannel	.75" H x 2" W x (16' & 24') L
1707*	1" x 2" mainframe	1" H x 2" W x (16' & 24') L
1708*	2" x 2" mainframe	2" H x 2" W x (16' & 24') L
1706*	2" x 2" corner post	2" H x 2" W x (16' & 24') L
052590*	1.5" x 2" uchannel	1.5" H x 2" W x (16' & 24') L

Screen Wall Components

Part Number	Part Description	Dimension
1101*	2" Mullion Clips	1" x 1" x 2"
Varies by type	Screen roll	Width varies, 100' long
25*	Series 2600 Screen Door (assembled or knockdown)	36" or 32" W x 80" W (standard)
F250K* (18")047475* (24")	Embossed Kickplate	18"H x 50'L24"H x 50'L
123-SD	Spline	.180" x 1500'
H310A0015	Foam Tape	1/2" W x 15' L
P860*	Touch up paint	NA
819536*	Color matched tek screw	#8 x 3/4" (100 per pack)
T410	Heavy Duty Screen Roller	NA

Screen Wall Kit Overview #

In addition to the details provided in this guide, a variety of helpful resources are available on your dedicated project page in our customer portal. You should have received access instructions by email when your order was placed.
If you no longer have these instructions, please contact our customer service team, and we will be happy to resend your access information.

2" Screen Wall System Exploded Detail

Aluminum Screen Wall System Exploded View

Between the guidelines below and the custom drawing included with your quotation, you have everything needed to complete this step. If anything is unclear, our support team is happy to help.

Before cutting any material, lay out all components and review how each piece fits together. Confirm that you have enough material for the entire installation.
If you are uncertain about any cut or placement, please call before cutting.

For screen-walls-only systems, materials are optimized to keep pricing as reasonable as possible. Because aluminum extrusions are available only in 24' standard lengths, you may need to butt-splice certain profiles.
This is most common for the top, bottom, and rear wall U-channels and is completely normal.

The U-channel forms the framework for all openings, providing a solid surface to attach the vertical posts and horizontal mainframe sections that contain the spline grooves.
It is mounted in three key areas:

Along the floor
To the underside of your existing roofline
Vertically up the house wall on each side of the room and any existing posts

U-channel is not installed across the floor where a door will be placed.
Leave a 36-inch opening (or adjust based on the actual door width ordered with your kit) between floor U-channels to accommodate the doorway.

You may choose to miter-cut the U-channels at the corners for a clean joint, but the simpler and more common method is a square-butt joint.

Install the top and bottom U-channels in one continuous length from the house wall to the corner post.
Then install the vertical U-channel on the house wall between the top and bottom pieces.
For standard outside screened rooms, run the horizontal U-channel the full width of the front wall, both top and bottom, as shown in your layout drawing.

Your hardware box includes one or more rolls of foam tape.
This can be applied to the back of vertical U-channels when mounting to uneven or rough surfaces such as brick, block, or lap siding to improve the seal.

Concrete or brick: Use Tapcon screws or drive anchors to secure the U-channel.
Wood surfaces: Drill a starter hole in the aluminum, then use appropriately sized wood screws.
Fastener spacing: Place screws or anchors every 18 to 24 inches along the length of the U-channel.

Although optional, you may apply a bead of high-quality silicone to the underside of the U-channel before securing it. This creates a waterproof seal between the aluminum and the floor surface.

If your pad is sloped and you prefer to allow drainage, you can drill small holes along the U-channel’s length.
Be aware that this may provide minor openings for insects, so use this option only if drainage is necessary.

With the U-channels now installed, you can begin securing the vertical framing members. Refer to your custom layout drawing to identify the locations of all verticals required to complete your room.

Cut and install the 1" × 2" mainframe into the U-channel previously mounted along the house wall and existing posts.
Use the U-channel to plumb (level) the mainframe so it sits straight and even.
Secure the 1x2 mainframe into the U-channel using the supplied self-tapping hex-head Tek screws.
- Fasten on both sides of the mainframe.
- Use approximately four Tek screws per 8-foot section per side.

Note: Do not seat the 1x2 mainframe completely at the bottom of the U-channel. Leave enough space to keep the spline groove exposed for screening later (see illustration on the right).

In most applications, 1x2 mainframe is used on existing house walls and posts (shown in green lines in Step 3).
However, a 2x2 mainframe may be used instead:

When a door is installed directly adjacent to the house wall, or
When specifically requested in your quote.

The 2x2 installs the same way as the 1x2. Always confirm which profile is required for your project by checking the custom layout drawings included with your kit.

Next, install the 2" × 2" vertical mainframes according to the spacing shown on your quotation drawing.

Measure and mark each vertical position using the drawing as your guide.
Cut and place each 2x2 vertical into the top and bottom U-channels.
Ensure the spline grooves are oriented correctly based on your screening method:
- Outside screening is most common and preferred for standard installations.
- Inside screening is acceptable when exterior access is limited.

Note on Spacing:

The dimensions shown on your drawing are measured from post or house wall to the centerline of each 2x2 vertical, and from vertical to vertical centerlines.
You do not need to make precision cuts for vertical length—small variances will be concealed inside the top and bottom U-channels.
Spacing between verticals can vary slightly (½" to 1") as long as it does not exceed the maximum screen width (.1") supplied in your kit.

Securing the 2x2 Mainframe

Secure each 2x2 vertical mainframe in place by fastening it inside the top and bottom U-channels using the supplied self-tapping hex-head Tek screws.
Attach screws at both the top and bottom of each vertical, and on both sides, as shown in the overhead cross-section illustration on the right.

Door Opening Installation

Next, install the 2" × 2" mainframes on both sides of the door opening.
Ensure these posts are perfectly plumb (vertically level) and spaced accurately to accommodate the door being installed.

For example:

A 36-inch door requires a clear (daylight) opening of exactly 36" wide × 80" high between the inside faces of the two verticals.
Install one 2x2 mainframe on each side, leaving a precise 36-inch gap for your door.

Always refer to your custom layout drawing (provided with your quotation) to confirm exact dimensions and framing requirements for your specific application.

Some installations may not use existing posts for the screen wall—such as when working inside or outside existing posts or railings.
If your project already includes structural posts, you may skip this step and proceed to the next section.

For installations without existing posts, your kit includes 2" × 2" aluminum corner posts. These allow you to securely join and screen two walls meeting at a 90° angle.

Important:
Pay close attention to the orientation of each corner post during installation.
If installed upside down, the spline and screen grooves will be misaligned, causing the screen to loosen or pop out easily once installed. Always double-check alignment before securing.

When installing the corner posts into the U-channel, carefully verify the orientation before securing them.
Ensure the spline grooves are correctly positioned to allow screening on both adjoining walls and are not confused with the kickplate grooves.

The screen spline grooves should face outward on both the front and side walls.
When oriented correctly, the kickplate grooves will be on the inside face of each corner post (inside the U-channel).

Verify the position of the spline groove

The images below illustrate the proper installation of the 2x2 vertical mainframes for an outside screen application.
Ensure that the kickplate grooves on the inside faces of both the vertical and horizontal mainframes are aligned and meet cleanly, as shown in the examples.

2x2 Mainframe in Bottom Uchannel

2x2 Mainframe in Top Uchannel ( with 1x2 installed)

If your door will be installed in the first section next to the house wall or on an existing post, use a 2" × 2" mainframe in the wall U-channel instead of a 1" × 2".
This adjustment is already reflected in the materials provided with your kit.
There is no bottom U-channel and no 1" × 2" mainframe installed in door openings.

Wireframe screenroom with mainframe installed

The installation process for the horizontal mainframes will vary slightly depending on the opening sizes and options selected during the quotation stage.
Your custom layout drawing identifies which configuration applies to your room.

There are several possible installation methods:

Step 4A applies to all installations and must be completed in every case.
Step 4B applies only to rooms that include a chair rail.
Step 4C applies only to rooms that include a kickplate.
If your room includes both a chair rail and a kickplate, follow Steps 9A through 9C in sequence.

For rooms with openings wider than 42 inches and no kickplate, we recommend adding a chair rail to improve overall structural strength and rigidity.
The chair rail is made from the same 2" × 2" mainframe material used for your vertical framing members.

Cut and install the 2" × 2" mainframe to fit between the vertical mainframes installed in the previous step.
You may position the horizontal chair rail at any height you prefer, unless a local building code specifies otherwise.

As a general guideline, we suggest sitting in your favorite outdoor chair and installing the chair rail at a height that allows an unobstructed view of your backyard while seated.

Secure one of the mullion clips supplied in your kit to the 2" × 2" vertical mainframe at the desired height.
Next, position your cut 2" × 2" horizontal mainframe on top of this clip and fasten the clip to the underside of the horizontal 2" × 2".

Before securing the opposite side, place a level on the horizontal piece to ensure the mullion is perfectly level. Once confirmed, install the second mullion clip and fasten it to the other side.

Mullion clips are color-matched to your room. If unpainted clips were provided, you may spray them with the supplied touch-up paint (if included) or a matching color before installing the screen mesh later in the process.

The images below show two views of a properly installed chair rail.

The left image illustrates the correct alignment where the kickplate grooves of the material line up on the inside faces of the posts.
The right image shows the screen spline grooves correctly aligned for an outside screen configuration.

2x2 Chair Rail Installed

Front View of 2x2 Chair Rail

Wireframe Screen room with screening installed

In most installations, the kickplate is secured using a 1" × 2" mainframe, as shown in this section.
For rooms with openings wider than 54 inches, a 2" × 2" mainframe will be provided instead.
The installation process is the same for both configurations, following the same general steps outlined below.

Installing the Kickplate

Cut and Prepare the Kickplate
Cut (or score and snap with a box knife) each kickplate section to size.
Each piece should be cut ⅜" longer than the measured opening width between vertical framing members.
Slide the kickplate into position as shown in the second illustration on the right.
Tip: The kickplate material is delivered in a coiled roll. Installation is often easier if you cut the sections first, then allow them to flatten out for a short time before installing.

Install the 1" × 2" Mainframe Above the Kickplate
Measure each opening, then cut and fit the 1" × 2" horizontal mainframe between the vertical framing members, directly above the kickplate.
Temporarily place the 1x2 in position to ensure the kickplate slides fully into its groove, as shown in the first illustration on the right.

Attach the Mullion Clips
Once the kickplate is properly seated, slide a mullion clip under the 1x2 mainframe where it meets each vertical framing member.
Using a pen, mark the vertical frame where the bottom of each clip aligns.
Remove the 1x2 mainframe, then secure one mullion clip per side to the vertical members using your marks as guides.
The top of each clip should sit approximately ¼" above the top of the kickplate.

Account for Floor or Ceiling Slope
If your ceiling or floor is sloped, keep the top edge of all kickplates level across openings.
Use a string line stretched across the full width of the room to maintain even alignment.

Trim for Slope
The bottom edge of each kickplate section may be trimmed as needed to match the slope of your floor or installation surface.

Note:
Be aware of the slope of your 1" × 2" mainframe during installation.
Your existing structure will likely match one of the three examples shown in the illustrations.

For instance, in the “Single Slope B” configuration, you’ll need to decide whether to run the H121 mainframe (located above the kickplate) parallel to the slope of your deck or patio, or parallel to the existing roofline.

Continuing with the “Single Slope B” example above:

If you install the 1" × 2" mainframe on top of the kickplate parallel to your roofline, the kickplate height will gradually increase on the outside vertical measurement as you move away from the house wall toward the front of the installation.

Alternatively, if you install the kickplate so it runs parallel to the deck or patio surface, the top screen section will become slightly taller on the outside vertical measurement as you move toward the front.

Once your orientation is chosen, place the 1x2 mainframe onto the mullion clips previously installed and secure it from the top (through the H121 profile) using the supplied self-tapping hex-head Tek screws.

Note:
If your room was ordered with a double-height kickplate, repeat the same process a second time to achieve the full required height.

Step 4A: Install Mainframe in U-Channel

Cut the 1" × 2" horizontal mainframes to fit between the vertical framing members, and install them into the floor and roof U-channels using the supplied self-tapping hex-head Tek screws.

Take care not to lower the 1x2 mainframe completely into the U-channel.
You must leave the spline groove exposed for the screen installation.
Position the mainframe at the correct height to keep the groove visible, then secure it in place with the provided Tek screws.

If your installation does not include a chair rail, install a 1" × 2" mainframe as the door header, positioned 80 inches above the floor.

If your unit includes a chair rail and/or a kickplate that uses a 2" × 2" mainframe above it, install a 2" × 2" mainframe as the door header instead.
In both cases, the finished opening should measure 80 inches from the floor to the underside of the door header.

For rooms with multiple chair rails, repeat this step for each opening that includes an additional chair rail.

Using the supplied screen, spline, and spline roller, you will now screen in all openings created during assembly.

If all previous steps were completed correctly, each opening should have a visible spline groove around its full perimeter.
If any opening is missing a groove, refer back to the appropriate section of this manual to correct the framing before proceeding.

If your room has no chair rail or includes only a kickplate, each section will have one opening to screen.
For rooms with a chair rail, there will be two openings per section—one above and one below the rail.
The small opening above the door must also be screened.

Begin by rolling the spline and screen into the vertical spline grooves first.
The greatest screen tension will occur at the midpoint of each vertical run.
After securing both vertical sides, have a helper apply light inward pressure on the screen surface while you continue rolling the spline.
To prevent the screen from becoming overly tight, drag your fingertip lightly across the screen material ahead of the roller as you work. This helps the spline seat smoothly without over-stretching the mesh.

Finishing the Screening

Once both vertical sides are complete, continue by screening from side to side, keeping the screen taut but not overstretched.

Next, roll the spline and screen into the horizontal spline grooves to secure the top and bottom edges.
Use four separate pieces of spline per opening rather than one continuous length.
Each piece should butt up closely to the next, but not overlap or touch, since the horizontal and vertical spline grooves do not intersect (see photo to the right).

After the spline is fully seated, trim any excess screen material using a sharp blade or box knife, cutting carefully along the back edge of the spline for a clean finish.

Important:
Take extra care not to pull the screen too tightly in the up-and-down direction.
Excessive tension may cause the horizontal center bar (chair rail or divider) to bow or warp out of alignment.

Tips

When installing in cooler temperatures (below 50°F), the spline may become stiff and harder to work with.
To make it more flexible, warm the spline before or during installation. You can use a hair dryer or simply place the spline roll inside your jacket and feed it out through your sleeve as you work.
For larger openings or if you find it difficult to keep the spline seated in the groove, spline clips are available to help hold the spline in place during installation.